Second night in New York we made a trip out to Brooklyn to eat at the restaurant of my nephew Conor’s oldest and best friend, Pip. It’s called Three Letters and is charming and lovely just the way I like a restaurant. Nothing slick or artificial, it was small, intimate and inviting.
I didn’t ask Pip if all the food was of his own inspiration but if it is, and I assume it is because he is the chef, it was awesome and it was certainly inspired. The appetizer selection was too intriguing to not try a bunch of them. We started with cauliflower fritters, pickled onion rings and crepettes, chick pea flour crepes filled with spinach and goat cheese. All three of these were excellent, different, and well thought out. The sauces that accompanied them were outstanding. The gazpacho sauce that came with the cauliflower fritters was particularly brilliant in both its concept and execution.
I really liked how he (as I said, I assume it’s Pip but I’m really not sure) made up French sounding names for things, like crepette and crudisson, a play on crudités the French word for raw vegetables and sauce, crudisson included a raw oyster. I don’t think the French like people playing with their language (They’re French after all) but they would certainly have approved of his spin on their food.
I had the evening special, beef bourguignon which was also great, a kind of deconstructed bourguignon with falling-apart-tender meat and lovely potatoes. I didn’t have or even taste the french fries because I was too full with my own meal but they looked Belgian-perfect.
I also regret not having eaten dessert. Even if I don’t generally like dessert, everything here was so good and well conceived that I should have found room.
The letter I’d give it is A with three plusses. So very much better than Prune.