Braise, third time

Last night my sister Patty was in town and she has an interest in local, sustainable and organic. She had interviewed the owner of Braise for an article. We ate at the kitchen bar. It was less interesting than you might think. You are really not watching the kitchen, just the expediter and another chef who is manning a station the purpose of which I was unclear. He had an oven he was working and, it seemed, making salads. As I said, it wasn’t that interesting and the bar didn’t extend enough over my lap to be eating comfortably but the service was better, though not great, than it had been the last time.

The small plates, though, were good. The dessert which came out looking vaguely phallic wasn’t. Two small olive oil cakes that were dry, and seemed stale, with a dog-dick pink quenelle of gelato wedged between them. We ate them anyway, well, most of them.